Belstaff presents the dual gender Autumn Winter 18 collection, ‘Made In UK’, celebrating the brand’s British roots, with nearly a hundred year history of innovation and legacy of protection for adventure.
2018 marks the 70th Anniversary of the iconic four-pocket Trialmaster jacket, originally designed to protect against the harsh weather at the Scottish Six Day Trials, providing a poignant moment for Belstaff to celebrate this history during London Fashion Week Men’s. Revealing for the first time a curated selection of the Trialmaster Archive, developments in fabrics, manufacturing and design details speak to the decades they were launched, with colours and decorative pins and badges showing the pride of previous generations. Through exploration of the Trialmaster history Delphine Ninous, Creative Director, found her seasonal inspiration looking into English subcultures:
“I started looking at youth movements since the 1950s, referencing the vitality and energy of sub-cultures such as the mods, punks, rockers and skins, who all in very different ways sought to express an inter-generational clash though music and fashion. As I discovered through the Archive many were wearing our iconic jackets and customising them. This season these themes are played out in our iconic silhouettes such as the field jacket, parka, biker and bomber. We wanted to celebrate our heritage but also shine a light on our spirit of innovation whilst remaining modern and looking to our future.”
Belstaff originated as a manufacturing company in Stoke on Trent and this season gives the opportunity to celebrate this with a return to production in the UK in a series of outerwear pieces. The 70th Anniversary ‘Made In UK’ outerwear series launches a new tumbled coated cotton, with reflective stripes and badges.
Through this legacy, Belstaff has been able to introduce the evolution for today through the Origins collection, celebrating the four-pocket silhouette in the most innovative technology and protective fabric. Autumn Winter 18 sees the launch of new heat mapping technology, a first for the brand, engineered to meet the precise requirements of the body in motion with in built thermoregulation.
Belstaff chose to showcase this celebration in London’s Soho at The Vinyl Factory. Guests entered through a vintage record shop to see model vignettes among an industrial scaffolding set, with this modern material also being used to suspend the Archive. Guests enjoyed Cîroc cocktails against a backdrop of Belstaff bespoke wrapped bottles. Belstaff’s purpose since 1924 has been to provide protective clothing for generations of pioneers, which now includes today’s modern day adventurer.
Gavin Haig, Belstaff CEO, comments: “Our archive is a rich story of Belstaff and iconic outerwear, protecting you to venture free, for now and for nearly one hundred years, from the legendary Trialmaster of 1948, through to the innovative Origins collection, launching in 2018. A significant year for the company too, with Belstaff back under British ownership, since the acquisition by INEOS at the end of December 2017, we are proud to have this opportunity to celebrate our British roots.”
@Belstaff #MadeInUK #Trialmaster #BelstaffOrigins
Belstaff is a modern British heritage brand steeped in the spirit of adventure, protecting independent spirits
to venture free. In Belstaff, the fearless explorer and the stylish alike will discover clothing for a contemporary lifestyle influenced by Belstaff’s rich 94 year history, yet firmly rooted in the present and forever forward-looking.
Belstaff is headquartered in London and showrooms reside there and in New York, Milan and Munich. Belstaff is currently sold through its flagship on New Bond Street, and seventeen stores in Europe, the United States and Asia, through select wholesale distribution worldwide and on www.belstaff.com
BELSTAFF AW18 MENSWEAR AND WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION NOTES
Innovation has always been key at Belstaff, the Origins collection presents the latest in technology and new fabrications including a Tri-layer Nylon and ultra lightweight stretch Nylon, to provide high performance, mobile materials and weatherproof functionality. In addition to the waterproof, windproof, breathable, moisture wicking, quick drying and UV protective properties this season sees the introduction of the new heat mapping technology, adding thermoregulation, insulating or cooling the body based on its movement. Taking the iconic four-pocket silhouette the Traimaster Evo, Trialmaster Evo Parka, Jetstream and Slipstream come in new colourways of the season including Humid Green and Blue Flint.
Belstaff’s heritage silhouettes have all been updated for AW18 in a palette of deep hues including earthy greens, muddy blues, oxblood and copper. New for men this season is a tumbled coated cotton that creates a graphite effect with a barely perceptible sparkle in Harrington, Rebel Motorbike and Trialmaster silhouettes. This group also sees a subversion of the garment detail patches usually seen on the inside of army jackets, which now appear stitched on the exterior, alongside reflective taping. The lining directly references the red check from the punk era to evoke a sense of customisation and individuality. Importantly, this group of jackets will be made entirely in the UK. Women also have a new waxed-cotton four-pocket jacket with a vibrant red check lining and silver hardware to bring a modern femininity to a classic silhouette.
Parkas, Field Jackets and Bombers
Belstaff continues to evolve the parka style in many different iterations, creating an extremely versatile outerwear group across menswear and womenswear. Both long and short styles come with coyote fur or shearling-lined hoods, while a deep-winter version affords extra protection and warmth in the way of wadding. ‘Explorer’ versions in a bold red and orange and filled with a heavy down offer excellent functionality, while a more fashion-focused style for men features a coat with a graphic matt-black diagonal bonding stripe and a short removable parka lining.
Bombers are a key genre this season and as such have been further expanded with new styles in leather, shearling, along with more technical lightweight nylon. A stand-out style is a men’s reversible bomber with a split personality: a classic olive green on one side and a decidedly more vibrant silver on the other. A beautiful leather bomber with contrast orange lining evokes the classic military bomber styles of the 1960s which were widely appropriated by Britain’s youth cultures who repurposed them from Army surplus stores.
New shapes and treatments make this season’s leather offering really exciting. First off for men is a double hand-waxed style in three colours - blue, black and green - that offers a wonderful vintage patina, offset against a punk-inspired check lining.
A new group sees details inspired by the ongoing Origins line that puts technical innovation front and centre. Here, leather is bonded onto a jersey giving it a neoprene feel and structure, while the zippers come bonded, altogether offering a very contemporary look in cafe racer and four pocket versions for men, while for women a new cleaner four-pocket shape riffs on the same laser-cut tune, super modern, but still inherently Belstaff.
In women’s biker jackets, the rule book has been tweaked with the addition of mixed material elements to create individuality and self expression. Iterations of fur, velvet, vinyl, stud details, leopard print and red lining are also seen elsewhere in denim and short jacket silhouettes. These motifs are perpetuated throughout women’s footwear too, where the elasticated Chelsea boot fastening comes in the shape of a flash bolt.
Finally, a long rider coat in leather (also in cashmere too) reinforces a feminine functionality, while a leather moto jacket comes with painted white sleeves, white zippers and red lining, referencing the customisation of punk movements, and is available for both men and women.
Rich, warm shearling has been applied to all of Belstaff’s classic silhouettes together with a new four-pocket silhouette. For men, there is a treat: a mid-length shearling jacket in a deep olive green with black bonded taping details on the shoulders that completely reverses to show a rich shearling fur exterior - a real showpiece winter coat. Similarly for women, shearling provides some head-turning pieces, not least a reversible belted style that comes in a variety of colours including a beautiful pastel pink, an oily suede four-pocket style, and finally more of a biker-shape cut.
The formal wool coat is once again spearheaded by the Milford but this season it has been updated with a new double-breasted style with a soft shearling collar. The classic version also features a contrast red melton collar, which is also replicated in women’s coats to create a fun punky element.
Men also have a new, less formal and sportier subcategory to style out this season, which includes a casual four-pocket coat and a peacoat that has been lifted with a fun orange lining.
Sportswear and Jersey
For men, a continuation of the SS18 tracksuit style sees more muted autumnal hues with updated piping details. Men’s jersey comes with rubberised logo elements in a neoprene-style fabric. Women’s jersey and sportswear offering includes leather shorts with stripe detail, leather trousers and joggers. Graphic t-shirts inspired by music bands of the era are also offered for men and women.
Shoes and Accessories
Across both men’s and women’s shoes for AW18, military styles dominate. For men, a rugged black combat style is contrasted with a tan hunting boot, while for women, a super-high lace-up boot is the standout style, with shorter combat boots coming in both traditional and patent black leather. Women’s Trialmaster boots have also been updated for the season.